Baby Jiffy Knit Sweater
Materials:
3 ozs. Baby yarn (2- 1.5-1.75 oz/50g skeins) (to knit double stranded throughout)
1 pair (US)10 ½ (6.5mm) needles
4 stitch markers
4 stitch holders
Crochet hook G for crocheted tie
Note: Always begin and end rows with at least 3 knit stitches for borders. Make any increases or decreases between the borders.
Starting at neck edge: C/O 48 sts.
Rows 1 and 2: Knit
Row 3: (Beading Row) K3 * P2tog, YO, Repeat from * across ending P2tog, K3 (47 Sts) Note: This will make 20 holes to thread chain (tie) through.
Row 4: Knit
Row 5: K3, P across to last 3 sts, K3
Row 6: K3, * inc in next st (K in front and back of st), K1, repeat from * across ending inc in next st, K3 (68 sts)
Row 7: K3, P across to last 3 sts, K3
Row 8: K3, * K2tog, repeat from * across to last 4 sts, K4 (37 sts)
Row 9: K3, * K1, Bar 1 (insert needle under next horizontal loop of row below (between sts) and knit this as a st), repeat from * across ending K4 (67 sts)
Row 10: K3, *inc in next st, K2, repeat from * across ending inc 1, K3 (88 sts)
Row 11: Same as Row 7
Row 12: Same as Row 8 (47 sts)
Row 13: Same as Row 9 (87 sts)
Row 14: K5, * inc in next st, K4 repeat from * across ending inc 1, K6 (103 sts)
Row 15: Same as Row 7
Row 16: Same as Row 8 (55 sts)
Row 17: Same as Row 9 (103 sts)
Row 18: K3, * inc in next st, K5, repeat from * across ending inc in next st, K3 (120 sts)
Row 19: Same as Row 7
Row 20: Same as Row 8 (63 sts)
Row 21: Same as Row 9 (119 sts)
Row 22: K7, * inc in next st, K6, repeat from * across ending inc 1, K6 (135 sts)
Row 23: Same as Row 7
Row 24: K21 (front), inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K22 (sleeve), inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K41 (back), inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K22 (sleeve), inc in next st, place marker, inc in next st, K21 (front)(143 sts)
Row 25: K3, P across row, K3
Row 26: K across, inc in each st each side of markers (151 sts)
Row 27: K3, P across, K3
Row 28: K across, inc in each st each side of markers (159 sts)
Row 29: K3, P across, K3
Next Row: K25, put these sts on stitch holder for front, K30 (sleeve; divide remaining sts onto 3 stitch holders – 49 for back, next 30 sts for other sleeve, and remaining 25 sts for other front.
Sleeves: Work in Stockinette st for 4 inches, after last P row, decrease 6 sts evenly across row (every 5th st). Work remaining 24 sts in K1, P1 ribbing for 1 ½ inches. Bind off loosely.
Pick up stitches for other sleeve from holder and knit same as first sleeve.
Body of Garment: Put stitches from holders on needles in correct sequence, with the first 25 sts that you knitted before you started the sleeves on one needle and the rest on the other. Join yarn and knit the back 49 sts and the front 25 sts so that you have the garment altogether on one needle in correct sequence. (99 sts)
Knit in Stockinette st for 4 inches ending with P row.
Row A: K3, K2 tog across row to last 4 sts, K4 (53 sts)
Row B: K4, Bar 1, K1, to last 4 sts, K4 (99 sts)
Row C: Knit
Row D: K3, P across, K3
Repeat these 4 rows until you have made 3 patterns
Row E: K3, K2 tog across row to last 4 sts, K4 (53 sts)
Row F: K4, Bar 1, K1 to last 4 sts, K4 (99 sts)
Row G, H, I: Knit next 3 rows. Bind off loosely. Sew up sleeve. Make crocheted tie using No. 2 crochet hook and chain 30 inches with tassel ends. Then thread through beading at neck edge.
Pattern from Camp Pendleton Mainside NMCRS, Baby Layette Program, 1985. All Rights Reserved. No money is to be made from this pattern, nor from the knitting of this garment. Neither pattern nor garment is to be sold. This has been presented for your charity knitting purposes only. This disclaimer must remain attached to this pattern, and may not be reproduced without permission from NMCRS HQ.
My suggestions when making this sweater.
First of all, the original size is large enough to fit a 6-9 month old baby. I would suggest that you make that size first, and figure out how many rows you use for the length in the sleeves and the body of your sweater. Write that number down. Then you can use the same number of rows as you downsize your yarn and your needles.
I cannot emphasis enough the need to COUNT, COUNT, COUNT your stitches at the end of each row, especially in the yoke section. If you're going to make a mistake, chances are that's the section where you will goof up. The number of stitches at the end of each row is key to making sure you're right on target.
Here, in pictures, is how to make the Bar 1. After you have completed row 8 with the k2 tog across which reduces the number of stitches, the Bar 1 row will increase your stitch count once again. To do that, starting with row 9,(on the wrong side of your sweater) Knit your 3 stitches for your edge stitches. Then knit 1. (you now have 4 stitches on your right hand needle)
Lift the horizontal loop from the row below between your stitches on the separate needles. Knit into that loop. Put that stitch on your right hand needle. You now have 5 stitches on your needle. Knit one more from your left needle, giving you a total of 6 stitches on your needle.
Repeat that sequence across the row of Bar 1, Knit 1.
The original pattern calls for using a chain stitch for the neck tie and tassels. I prefer using a 3 stitch I-chord instead. Before I discovered the I-chord, I used to use a ribbon tie, as well. It's up to you how you wish to complete your sweater. You could even follow the other 5 hour sweaters that you can find online and add buttons if you wish. I happen to like the finished look of the I-chord. Now, to make them, I use double point needles one or two sizes LESS than the size I knit the sweater in. (Meaning, if I knit it with size 10.5mm[6.5mm], then I'll use a 9 [5.5mm] for the I-chord.) I also don't necessarily stick to the 30" either. After making my I-chord somewhat longish, I'll thread it through the eyelet neck holes and tie it to see if it's long enough for my fancy, mood, or what I have left in my yarn. I also finish off the ends with little love knots. I really like the way they look.
I also use a K2, P2 ribbing on the cuffs, just a personal preference. Since I use a cable cast on, I add one additional row of knitting in the beginning of this sweater, and did NOT include that in the directions.
Original size
(US)10.5 (6.5mm) needles for sweater
(US)9 (5.5 mm) double point needles for I-chord
double stranded DK/Sport weight yarn
(Lion Brand Baby Soft used-double stranded)
25" (63.5cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 15sts/20 rows= 4"/10 cm
(US) 9 (5.5mm) needles for sweater
(US) 8 (5.0mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand Worsted weight yarn
(Caron Simply Soft)
21"(53.3cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 17 sts/21.5 rows
(US) 8 (5.0mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand Worsted weight yarn
(Caron Simply Soft)
21"(53.3cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 17 sts/21.5 rows
(US) 8 (5.0mm) needles for sweater
(US) 7 (4.5mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand Worsted weight yarn
(Caron Simply Soft)
20 .5"(52cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 17.5 sts/22.5 rows
(US) 7 (4.5mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand Worsted weight yarn
(Caron Simply Soft)
20 .5"(52cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 17.5 sts/22.5 rows
(US) 7 (4.5mm) needles for sweater
(US) 6 (4.0mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport weight yarn
(Hobby Lobby Sweet Delight Baby)
18" (40.6cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 21 sts/28 rows
(US) 6 (4.0mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport weight yarn
(Hobby Lobby Sweet Delight Baby)
18" (40.6cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 21 sts/28 rows
(US) 6 (4.0mm) needles for sweater
(US) 5 (3.75mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport Weight yarn
(Hobby Lobby Sweet Delights Baby)
16.5" (41.8cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 22.5 sts/31.3 rows
(US) 5 (3.75mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport Weight yarn
(Hobby Lobby Sweet Delights Baby)
16.5" (41.8cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 22.5 sts/31.3 rows
(US) 5 (3.75mm) needles for sweater
(US) 4 (3.5mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport weight yarn
(Bernat Softee Baby)
15.5"(39.3cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 22.5 sts/32 rows
(US) 4 (3.5mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport weight yarn
(Bernat Softee Baby)
15.5"(39.3cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 22.5 sts/32 rows
(US) 4 (3.5mm) needles for sweater
(US) 3 (3.25mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport weight yarn
(Bernat Softee Baby)
13.5"(34.2cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 25.5 sts/33.25 rows
(US) 3 (3.25mm) double point needles for I-chord
single strand DK/Sport weight yarn
(Bernat Softee Baby)
13.5"(34.2cm) chest finished size
Gauge: 25.5 sts/33.25 rows
153.8 yards (140.6m)
47 g/1,64 oz.